When it comes to sushi, I’m probably like most Phoenicians. Give me a decent salmon piece that doesn’t stink and a nice, fresh tuna, and I’m good. Also, keep the uni away. No sallow sex organs of the sea urchin for me, thank you. But when acclaimed Yasu Sushi Bistro scored another round of kudos from Valley reviewers who are always yammering about their extensive visits to Japan, I decided to get in the swim.

Toting our landlocked palates to Yasu’s home in a Paradise Valley strip mall, dining companion Lebo and I entered the hallowed doors, prepared to step outside our comfort zone, reveling every lick of the way. After fending off opportunities to purchase rare $20 sakes and $16 pinot noirs, we settled in with a red snapper carpaccio, the dainty slivers of seafood arranged in a starfish shape. Lightly seasoned and fresher than West Coast ocean spray, the red snapper was everything fabulous my Internet research said it would be.

Grill Thrills

We expected the real star of the show to be the “sumibi yaki” menu, Japanese charcoal-grilled dishes noted for their seductive smokiness. Yasu dedicates no fewer than a dozen daily specials to its grill selection. After sampling a whole grilled squid, grilled shrimp with creamy basil sauce, grilled scallops wrapped in bacon, as well as short ribs subjected to the coals, I’m surprised Lebo and I didn’t leave a trail of smoke in our wake.

Were we thrilled? Not so much. The Grilled Surume Squid ($13.50) made a dynamite impression, arriving sliced on a surfboard-sized plate in the squiddy glory of its original configuration. Not as tender as a baby squid, the rings were a bit chewier than we like, and when I braved the triangle of squid tail, which I’ve always wanted to snap up, the texture was like old gum. Maybe that’s normal, but how should I know; it was my first time.

The Basil White Shrimp ($8.50) waved proudly from skewers and leaned fetchingly in a shot glass accompanied by a dish of pesto-like sauce. It was truly different, which gets my high five, but the combo was unsettling, and with perfectly cooked, morning-fresh shrimp like this, I wish I’d stuck with the simpler salt-and-pepper soy option.

At $4.50 per, the two Bacon Scallops passed muster. Some people say these are the best version they’ve ever had. Silky but hardly transcendent, the tasty mounds satisfied for the price when Lebo and I tried them. Nibbling the crustier bits of bacon along with the wedding-white flesh greatly added to the pleasure.

We were lucky and unlucky with the Short Ribs ($8.50). Because only a fatty cut was left, the kitchen kindly sent out nearly a double portion, and truly the meat wears its sublime teriyaki-essence flavor like a couture ball gown. Next time, though, I’ll ask about the quality, because I just don’t want that fat. So sue me.

Sushi Triumph

As a baseline, Lebo and I ordered a couple of sushi standards, what with our Japan-free experiences and all. The Salmon Nigiri ($4.50) here rocked it. I nearly dove into Lebo’s pint of Kirin Ichiban ($5) and started spawning.

This wasn’t surprising, since Yasu specializes in importing fresh specimens from some faraway and totally impressive place the server didn’t make exactly clear. On his recommendation, we also ordered the Bluefin Toro Sushi special ($12). The waiter actually stayed to see the transported looks on our faces when we tried it, only to trail away disheartened. Yes, it was fatty. Yes, it cost $6 per piece and had the luxurious consistency of fish cheesecake. And yes, I’m over critically acclaimed fatty fish. My taste buds struggled to find anything to exalt here.

Soft Sell

The Softshell Crab ($13) that was much ballyhooed among online diner reviews reached out with typical appeal: i.e. a sort of seafood-infused french-fry experience. For the first time in a long time, I experienced a decent “body” experience, pulling diamonds of white meat from the oily breaded shell, and nobody can argue about the allure of munching on softly fried legs. Yet, I expected more. I’ve had more—not in Japan, but New York City in autumn. Frankly, I’m giving up on this dish in Phoenix. And the mildly flavored cluster of breaded mushrooms was so weak I wanted to beat it up on the playground along with its little friend, a pansy white sauce I can now barely remember.

Eat Me

Cozy, cool and innovative, Yasu truly is a don’t-miss destination. Lebo and I were limited to one visit, punctuated by “oh my God” longings inspired by every dish borne past us to other tables. Steamed clams, duck breast, even bamboo-wrapped beef tongue—you name it. Every day’s menu is unexplored country begging to be discovered.

We ended our experience with one of the best desserts of our lives, a Green Tea Cheesecake Fondu ($8.50), swirls of cheesy starlight wrapped like taffy around three skewers dipped in coconut, pineapple and walnut, accompanied by a flame-warmed bowl of melted chocolate.

Will I go back? Yasu-ree.